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As promised... Picked up the new "mini-comp trailer" yesterday. 7x15 v-nose. Will fit well in a 20' space. Here's the pics:

Had to stop by Sams to fill it up - Will be back here in 3 weeks competing!


Back at home


Back ramp can be a "porch"


It has stableizer/leveling jacks under each corner... not engaged currently, Obviously.


Jacks in action. The top part of the ramp is the built in jacks for the "porch"


I've got everything pretty much dialed in and ready to load, but I've got to commit on my batt power/charger/inverter plan for my pits.
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Thanks guys! I'm enjoying it already.

I've put both pits in it and they fit nicely with plenty of room for more "stuff."

I haven't decided what else I'll do on the inside, probably just add a shelf up front and call it good. I've got folding tables I'll use as prep tables after moving the pits out... and a cot Smiler

My main decision right now is power. The trailer +/- the AC will run on site power, but I want to run my pits off of something more reliable. So deciding on 1)couple of batteries + charger + inverter vs 2) couple of batteries + a combo charger/inverter like the tripp lite Smokin uses vs 3)screw it I'm buying a big generator and running the whole thing off of that...

I think 3 is out of the question, 1 is probably cheapest, 2 is most convenient.

Guess I better decide soon... First comp March 23-24!

By the way the over/under on how long it can sit in my driveway before the "old lady next door" complains has been set at 1 week.

Nordy
quote:
Originally posted by Nordy:
...

My main decision right now is power. The trailer +/- the AC will run on site power, but I want to run my pits off of something more reliable. So deciding on
1)couple of batteries + charger + inverter vs
2)couple of batteries + a combo charger/inverter like the tripp lite Smokin uses vs
3)screw it I'm buying a big generator and running the whole thing off of that...

I think 3 is out of the question, 1 is probably cheapest, 2 is most convenient.

...

Nordy


1 is cheapest you could do right now, then buy the inverter charger. Since it's how I do it, #2 is easiest in the long run because if you don't do it like this, you'll have to hook up a charger all the time to charge them, unhook, etc etc.

The set up I sent you is a set it and forget it. Hook it up once and you're done.

Generator is good, but I didn't like the hastle of hauling it around as I only used it once in 4 years.
Looks good! I'm thinking Orange would look better, lol. We just picked up our first comp trailer too. I am also looking for dedicated power too, let me know what you decide to go with as I am toying with the idea of Choice #2 as well.

I'll stop by and introduce myself at Midwest City.

Kent
I put it front left near the breaker so that the run from the batteries to a plug wouldn't be far (I put them on their own).

You could put it anywhere you have a plug AND a port to pass the cord out. I run a cord from the inverter/charger out through the wall where I put a port to run the cord through the wall.

Lots of other ways to do it, but that's how I did. I just ran the smokers off that inverter and two batteries.
quote:
Originally posted by David Qualls:
Just be careful with the batteries inside the trailer not in a covered and vented box. You don't want them gassing inside the trailer when they charge. They will put off gas while charging. I would have a battery box mounted outside on the tongue if there is room. Otherwise make a compartment with an outside vent grill.


I don't have a place to put an external box, so my fix was internal and vented. My 8.5 x 8 foot ramp is down and there is lots of airflow.
Well, that is a good question... It involves math... ugh

I'd like someone who knows more than me to chime in with the calculations as I'm not confident in the way I'm calculating things...

The FEC100 and PG1000 each pull about 50 watts max after startup. Auger 25W and Fan 25 W per the manuals. So, assuming the augers and fans are on all the time (they aren't) The two smokers together are pulling 100W.

So Watts=Amps x volts

100W = A x 120V
A = 0.83333

So both cookers running full tilt are pulling a max of 0.83 Amps. Add in some inefficiency in the system and round up to 1 AMP

Each battery is rated for 115 Amp-Hours so In parallel that adds to a total of 230 amp hours. Assuming that the batteries only like 50% discharge... that's 115 amp hours...

So at 1AMP.... they would run for a theoretical 115 hours?

That seems like a long time... Someone check my math

Nordy
You also need to factor in the efficency of the inverter, most are in the 80% range. There is also loss in the wiring from the batteries to the inverter, the larger the wire size and the shorter the runs, the less the loss.

Temperature, etc also are factors. I have dual deep cycle marine batteries, a xantrac unit and can run my entire setup for a contest minus the air conditioner. This includes an FEC100, FEPG500, lights, water pump, electric knife, immersion blender, radio, LCD TV and whatever else my wife wants.
I'll let you know this weekend... Cooking a full comp in my driveway as a "dress rehearsal" this weekend. I'm going to check all of that before I put the meats on.

I'm guessing it's not enough to reset it. I think it has a memory (but a very short memory)...

I'll let you know as soon as I test it, but Smokin' says his never reset when switching over...
Confirmed... Tested the PG1000 and the FEC100 tonight while hooked up to the Tripplite, neither of them even flickered when the power was cut and switched to the battery power. Even when both were running...

I will rest easy knowing no "Site power issues" will hamper my cook overnight!

Highly recommend! Thanks for the recommendation Smokin!

Nordy
I remember something about this in my FEC 100 manual.

I looked it up and on page 6 it says

"The IQ controller is equipped with a power backup system to prevent your Smoker from ‘forgetting’
what it is doing in the case of a power failure. The IQ will wait out power failures of up to 2 minutes
and resume normal cooking. This backup system means that turning off the Master Switch will not
cause the IQ to forget its current instructions. The reset button may be used to clear these current instructions
and cause the IQ to start over from the beginning."

It probably has a power storing capacitor on the board that supplies a small amount of power that will hold the ROM for a period of time based on the board design. This is pretty common these days and the fact that it holds around two minutes means there is ample time to keep from losing the cook with a backup device or even changing batteries on an invertor.

Hope that helps.
Nordy.

I made a curtain. I don't like those plastic curtain some people use. I took two furniture moving blankets, added rivets and hung it from a rod I put across the back.

Get a rod heavy enough to handle the weight.

I put the rod as close to the top as I could.

During summer events, I run the A/C just fine with that back there.

trailer is in storage. If you need photos, let me know and I'll try to take some.
Nordy.

The reason I went with the blankets over sidewalls was primarily two things.

One. Insulation. The thicker blankets will keep the heat out and the A/C in. Trust me, summertime you'd notice the difference

Two. Sound. When I'm inside, the blankets up, it's noticeably quieter inside. so when I set it, forget it, I get more sleep.
@Nordy I just bought at trailer and there are no jacks on either the rear corners or the door and I and going to have to do purchase and install myself. Did you order the trailer with 2 scissors jacks and 4 kick downs on the ramp? I have to figure out where on the frame and how many I need to get ordered.

All other opinions encouraged as well.
...and another rquestion for Mr. Nordy. Are you using both the ac power system (I see int eh pics) and the SmokinOkie Triplite system. Can you describe a bit more how the two are connected etc. I am removing interior walls and starting to insulate and add systems to my new trailer and am interested in how you are connecting the two. Thanks

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