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Reply to "Red Wine Salt"

quote:
Originally posted by SmokinOkie:
Interesting idea thanks for posting, I'll give it a try.

So have you dry brined with it and could you tell a difference in taste? I'm trying to get more info about how much "flavor" gets carried via brining (I have a lot of conflicting info).

Yes, when time and circumstances allow, I’ve pre-salted or dry brined for several years. And, if done properly, I can definitely tell a difference in both the taste and texture. By properly, I’m referring to time.

I first became familiar with the process around 11-12 years ago when eating the tastiest and most succulent chicken I’ve ever had at one of our favorite restaurants in San Francisco, The Zuni Café. I asked the owner, Judy Rogers, if they injected the chickens or did something else to get the result they did, and she responded by saying all that they did was pre-salt their meats, and occasionally add some herbs for additional flavor. I did some research and experimentation on the subject and have been pretty much devoted to the procedure since.

While there are some scientific complexities involved, the process itself is pretty straightforward:
1. Pre-salting (dry brining) helps promote juiciness and improves texture. It helps dissolve some of the proteins within and around muscle fibers that would otherwise resist chewing.
2. The salt initially draws moisture from the cells (osmosis) which is only temporary.
3. After a while, the cells reabsorb the moisture (reverse osmosis) which is seasoned with the flavor enhancing salt.
4. When fully absorbed the salt alters the cell structure (denaturing) whereby they become larger and able to absorb and retain more moisture during the cooking process.

The key element in the process is time, which obviously is variable depending upon the meat is being prepared. Some pre-planning is necessary, and how early I pre-salt foods is a function of their size, amount of surface area, and density or expected toughness. I would consider the times mentioned in my original post as bare minimums. The process is pretty flexible and I find that an extended rest with the pre-salt will not hurt the meat at all. It simply produces a better result.

My guess is those who have attempted the process and have dismissed it as inferior have done so for a couple reasons. First, they may become impatient and tried to shorten the process and did not allow enough time for the moisture to be pretty much fully reabsorbed into the meat. That will definitely produce a dry and tough finished product. Second, when done properly, the process will produce a succulent and tender product that, depending upon the meat, some might not be used to. As good as most might find it they may consider the mouth feel as off-putting since it is not what they would traditionally expect. An analogy here might be like comparing a good quality choice brisket to a Wagyu or Kobe style brisket. The Wagyu may be outstanding but different, and some folks just don’t like different.

While I’ve been pre-salting meat with and without herbs for quite some time, I’ve only recently been using the wine salt, and to date, I’ve only used red meats with red wine. I’ve done a number of steaks and chops as well as loins and roasts. Most recently (yesterday) I used the wine salt with cubed beef chuck that was ground for burgers once the process was completed. I’m planning on doing a brisket (flat) next weekend. Some items have been fully smoked, partially smoked, or cooked in the oven or grill. The wines used in the preparation of the salt have been good quality hearty robust ones such as cabs (Caymus, Harlan), Zins (Chase, Turley), Pinots (Selyem, Rochioli), and Malbecs (Caetana Zapata).

So, if you’re so inclined, experiment a little and give it a try. I think you’ll be surprised and pleased with the results. Just be patient.
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