FEC100 Igniter Issue - not the igniter rod...

Your best bet is to call Cookshack directly, and ask for Bill or Tony in technical support.

Posted in your other thread.

You don't have to use an ignitor, you can manually start it.

As for trouble shooting, not sure if it is or isn't the ignitor, I'm not sure I've heard of someone replacing an ignitor and it not working, they are pretty picky and it's a used unit so something else could be wrong.

Did you buy a new one from CS? They should help you out. Even if you didn't they'll still help you.

I'd call them for a 1 on 1, much easier to troubleshoot that way.

Russ

Inspect the ignitor wires very carefully where they pass through openings in the sheet metal to make sure they haven't frayed and are shorting out. Mine kept tripping the GFI for that reason and a little electrical tape fixed the problem.

Guys,

I tested the igniter in my PG1000 - they are the same igniter and it works fine. The wiring is good as well.

I ordered a couple of solid state relays from eBay which match the ones in the cooker. If nothing else I can use them for some of my CNC automation projects. I'm having a hard time finding the Potter Brumfield mechanical relay though - I'll remove it tonight to get an actual part number off of it since the one in the FEC100 manual is eluding me on the 'net. I'll use a DVOM to test the inputs using the diagram in the FEC100 manual tonight. That should help identify where the problem is. I was just looking to see if anyone had experienced a failure like this previously and happened to be on the forum. Appreciate the input!

I had the same problem, I purchased a used unit and the ignitor wasn't working. I bought a new one from Cookshack and installed it. I turned the FEC on and after a few seconds, there was a pop, and orange flash and it tripped the circuit breaker it was on. I've been manually starting it since. Let me know if you figure anything out. It would be nice to just flip a switch to start it.

Using the schematic in the manual I used my DVOM to test the voltages. The mechanical relay is fine, the solid state relay appears to be fine, however the control line from the IQ4 controller to the solid state relay is not holding +5V. It's engaging the solid state relay however after around 1 second it drops back to open. It appears the issue is the controller which is NOT good news. The past owner assumed it was the igniter rod as did I, but it looks like this could be much costlier to fix. Obviously this is an early IQ4 controller so maybe some of them had this issue. The controller and everything look brand new. Version is FE42.

Looks like the original IQ4 controller had a defect when it was assembled. Check out the SMD resistor on the board at a weird angle to the right of the "R4" resistor location. If the controller has SMD parts stuck to it in the wrong places then it's probably no surprise it never worked right for the original owner. This was a defect from the factory because any soldered on part would fall off the controller into the electronics bay, not remain attached because the back of the controller faces downwards. I removed it hoping it was somehow causing a short but it didn't help. I manually held down the mechanical relay to close the contacts and the cooker fired up like it should so the igniter is good. Kind of disappointing to see something like this because a new controller is not cheap.

Do this. Contact CS, tell them the issue, that it never worked. I'm not saying they'll fix it, but it won't hurt to ask.

When you bought it, did you test it and run it? That's always the issue with buying used.

Check with CS, they may/may not help but it doesn't hurt to ask.

I knew the igniter didn't work however that's usually a case of the igniter rod which is under $60 to fix. I showed Bill at Cookshack the pictures and explained the situation however the only fix is for me to buy a new control for $420. I'm going to look over the control board very carefully and see if it's missing a resistor.

If everything else works just fine, then it all comes down to is $420 worth it to be able to start with an ignitor?

Of course if you just plan on being out the $420 you can do all the experimenting you want with the current board to see if you can get it going... best case you fix it, worst case you're out the $420 you planned on being out... well I guess worst case you fry everything and have a great stainless steel shell... but that's unlikely!

Even with the $420 you still got a good deal!

N

Good point does it work without the ignitor?

I mentioned previously, the ignitor is only needed for the initial light, so that can be easily done manually.

I've vote for manual if that's all you have missing for $420 dollars.

Does the rest of the IQ work fine?

Guys,

From what I can tell the rest of the functionality of the controller is working but I need to do a few cooks on it to see whats up. I can probably rig up a time delay relay to resolve the issue outside of replacing the controller or do what FE told me, just put a switch on the side to engage the mechanical relay. I told Bill that I'd mess with it a bit more before proceeding forward. Also just so you guys know I have repaired electronics and equipment for a number of years. I just like things to work correctly. It's part of my brain and it bothers me when something isn't working right. However that mentality drove me to be able to fix more things than I ever thought possible so it's not such a bad trait to have UNTIL you can't fix it without spending $$$.

I hear you.

If you're a UNIX admin, I know the type (I work for a Fortune 20 IT company).

All we're saying is that if the rest of the functionality works, missing the ignitor is a very small issue. It can be resolved manually.

I would test it by setting the temp, say 250 and see if the internal temp matches the displayed temp (test your remote thermometer first)

I would also test the cook and hold functionality.

Set the 250 time for 2 hours and then see if it drops to the hold temp (set the hold temp to a temp of your choice)

I used to be a Unix admin a number of years ago. Now I'm an IT Director for a Fortune 300 company. However I'm more hands on than most 'tech nerds'. I exchanged a couple of emails with Bill and he said he could reflash my current controller and see if that helped. I'll run it through it's paces for a couple of weeks and when the weather turns crappy I'll ship him the controller to be reflashed.

I'll do the testing this afternoon for 250 versus my ET-732 temp readings (which was tested already at boiling and freezing).

Well a little further diagnosis and some soldering on the controller has resulted in the igniter function working again. I do have a quick question. Is there a longer igniter as on my unit here's what happens:

1. Press Start, mechanical relay closes for the igniter and then kicks back off.
2. Auger runs for around three minutes.
3. Igniter is fired, mechanical relay is on.
4. Igniter glows red but the pellets are concentrated at the front of the stainless fire pot.
5. Auger starts running again and it eventually piles in enough pellets to ignite. It seems like it will take around 8-10 minutes to start up.

Is this normal? The aggressive ramp seems to shoot the pellets towards the front of the fire pot. I ran it up to 250 degrees with two temp probes inside. The cooker maintained around a 10 degree swing without anything in it. Now it's dropping down to the 140 degree hold function but so far, so good. I get the Cookshack cover on Friday as well.

Pics:

Follow Smokin's advice
1)vacuum out ash from prior cook
2)throw in a handful of pellets
3)turn it on

Did I mention - you got a great deal?

N

Nordy,

Will do. I ran it at 400 degrees on the controller (425-455 reading on my ET-732) which burned off some of the gunk. I also used oven cleaner on the shelves which helped as well.

I'm probably going to order a couple stainless shelves as a couple of the chrome shelves are a bit rough.

Seems to run good though. Next step is to cook something.

Here's the thing.

When you start it on such a high temperature, the auger is really "throwing" the pellets.

Start it at a lower temperature and then ramp it up, seems to work best that way.

And go with my three steps. The auger doesn't need to be longer (they've actually gone through lots of different sizes) it's just a heat plug, it just needs pellets to ignite and a handful will do.

Some people will not clean the pot and there will be some leftover pellets and it will fire up fine. I don't recommend that. Ash will tend to settle and after a while, the heat makes it solidify and THAT can kill an ignitor.

Vacuuming is a good thing. I have a small vacuum I just leave on the deck under the FE for use (I use my FE's a lot).