Honda generator ?

I just bought a pair of eu200i's after selling my eu3000i.. (more wattage) For this combo there are two options. RV style and Contractor style.

But, for your pair of 3k's.. I believe there is only one option.. Use this tinyurl to surf to Speedway Sales.

http://tinyurl.com/r8yr8

I guess I'd call them at 888-617-7333 to find out what the end config would be. I'd guess it would be a 50A. RV plug.

It's a 50 amp receptacle similar to the one found at R/V camps. Straight push in. Let me know how this works for you as I am juggling one Honda 3000 now.



EU3000 Parallel Kit http://www.mayberrys.com/camping/index.htm
Connect 2 Honda EU300is generators together to get 6000 watts from one outlet! Plug the two power leads to each control panel and fasten the ground and you done. It's that simple! This parallel kit has a 50 Amp 125 Volt female outlet.
Part Number - L6370C - $240

Thanks for the info! The information received was more better, faster then what I was able to get from Honda corp and the local comp where I bought my 3000 bout a year ago.

Was hoping to get 60 amp. Guess I'll have to learn to "juggle" and get by with 50.

While I'm no electrician the real key to the whole thing is the size of the wire you plan to be using. Number 10 (10/2, 3 etc.) stranded wire is rated for 30 amps total. This is about the biggest "cord" wire you can normally obtain anywhere convenient. To run 50 or 60 amps you need some big cord special order cord! Therefore to get 50 or 60 amps of 120 with number 10, you need to run a double cord somehow. The wire will carry more current than that, but will heat up considerably and be a fire/safety hazard.

Just a thought that might save you a few bucks is to break your panel in your Q rig and serve them each independently off a different generator.

I have my trailer set up as Jerry suggested...

I have my breaker box divided and two wire cables come out the back of the trailer. I have male-plug L5-30 on the wires coming out of my trailer. When I do need more power... I have two generators, (I have a Honda and a Kipor)plug each male L5-30 connector into each generator. I now have full power from each generator. You can also move breakers around in the box to balance out the load to each generator.

I made up a Y adaptor that connects the two cable coming out of the trailer together when I don't need a lot of amps.
A male 15 amp 120 plug on one end that Y's to two female L5-30 recepticals.

Steveatfrontporchbbqdotcom

Freebird,

Juggling is fine as long as everyone working in the trailer understands and doesn't attempt to run the a/c, microwave, hot wells and hot water heater at the same time. I get by find with 3000W, even though my trailer will suck over 12,000W if everything is on and working full throttle. In 15 months I've only overloaded the generator three times and with the Honda's that isn't a problem. Turn everything off, and restart.

If you have a Camping World close they should have everything you need.

Something was bugging me abou this thread and then I figured out that the numbers did not add up right. Even though I'm still certified it's been a long time since I work aviation maintenance. But Watts still equals volts times amps. I just did my homework and used 10 gauge wire for a 30 amp extension for my new 240 volt Southern Pride. That is no different than 60 amps at 120 volts because the wattage stays the same, 7200 watts going down the line.

I have an eu3000is and love it. But with equipment that needs 240 I'm looking at Kubota diesel which is on the same level as Honda in quality and quiet running.

HTH,

Konrad

Teddy Bear you are right, you can run your Southern Pride on number ten wire at 240 volts and even a 300 series Cookshack. Wire size is determined by amps rather than voltage, it must have relate to resistance to current flow rather than voltage.

Therein lies the limitation of Honda generators of this size. Even if they are the coolest thing since pulled pork. Brand X or even a bigger Honda with a 240 hook up will give you up to 30 amps of 240 volt power on one number 10 wire cord which is 6000 watts total.

I have a small electric sawmill that requires 40 amps of 240 to start, but runs at about 28 amps. Getting the cords and the connectors all figured out was quite expensive so that you could break it down for transport. Even so I try to keep the total cord lengths under 50 feet.

PS: Konrad, I checked out the Kubota diesel sets online and they look really nice, pricey but like a good fit if you are going to be running almost exclusively on your own power. Do you know any place in this area that has them in stock, like a tractor dealer?

jerry,
good advice. our builder split the load (a little uneven but what the heck the a/c is useless as it goes up the hood system). i found out last year the upside of doing this as we were caught in an extermely heavy rainstorm which flamed out one of our two eu3000's. i switched leads and was still able to make the event no problem. the flamed out unit started 24 hours later as if nothing had happened.
also thanks for confirming the number 10 wire. after peg's problem i am going to build two 10 feet long extension wires. this along with a wheel kit for the 3000's and a loading ramp would continue operations for us.
jack

I know this is an old post but I thought I'd Let some of you think about building your own generator. I built a 10,000 watt generator for about 800.00. I bought a generator head from harbor freight for 200.00 on sale. Then got a 13hp honda look alike for 375.00. I got 2 pulleys that are twin belt to drive the unit at 25.00 ea and got some plate steel for a base. I got the steel for about 25.00 at a hiway guard rail company in there scrap metal pile. The wheels that came with my oven I mounted on the base to roll it around easy. But harbor freight has them for about 25.00 for 4 of them. The engine is electic start so I bought a lawn mower batt at Wally world for 15.00 and 10.00 for paint. 10.00 for nuts and bolts, ace hardware. 20.00 to have the base welded and 40.00 to have my son help me place and mark the holes to be drilled. And 30.00 for a belt guard to be built. Some of this cost can be less or more depending on how much you what to spend on your engine. But it's alot less then buying one. If any one is interested in pictures I can post them. I haven't made my pully guard yet as I'm thinking of making a stainless steel cover to put over the unit as a precaution.

I've used Honda generators in the past and loved them, but they are pricy. I bought one of the B&S 30244 models last year, and just bought two more about a month ago. While not as quiet as the Honda units, it is not as loud as many other brands of similar size(8k watts) and seems to be a lot of generator for the money. My first unit has over 500 hours on it now and runs like new. Here's a link showing the unit, but HD carries them also most of the year. Locally(NC) they were just discounted for some reason to about $1100.

http://www.electricgeneratorsdirect.com/catalog/product....php?products_id=698

I stayed at a holiday inn last night, but I still think there's one flaw in using 2 3000s in parallel. That is this remains 110V. If you have 50A service requirements there's some chance the box requires 240V and then steps down in the panel.

Just something to think about. I'm adding a 50A breaker and receptical to my house as we speak, and that's been on my mind.

good luck.