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I have had several PMs regarding my power setup for my FEC100 and PG1000... So here's a detailed description. I will post pictures later when I get a chance to take them.

I have the APS 1250 mainly for the auto charger and automatic switch to battery power if site power is lost. If you are just wanting to run off battery power all time you can probably pick up a good inverter for cheaper.

I have two of these:
EverStart 27DC

They are hooked in parallel. (keeps the same voltage but increases capacity (adds amp-hours))

Easiest way is to just pick up some battery cables from an auto parts store. I went with 2 Gage. I used 35" set to connect the batteries together and a 42" set to connect to the tripplite. I picked up a fuse holder and an ANL fuse (250AMP) from my local Car stereo place to put between the battery bank and the tripp-lite.

The battery cables I got have a built in ground wire on the negative pole, so I attached my gound wire to that and ran it to my breaker box. (do you need a ground?... debatable)

Pretty simple connections:
Batt neg to batt neg, to tripplite neg
Batt post to batt pos, to fuse, to tripplite

I just cut the 42" cable running from batt pos to tripplie pos and inserted the fuse there. It was easy.

So far I have just put both batteries in your standard battery box from Walmart and strap the tripplite to the top of those boxes. Good enough for now...

SO Parts list
-2 sets of Gage 2 battery cables (got mine from autozone) at whatever length you need for your application
-Fuse holder and ANL fuse
-Batteries
-Battery boxes
-Ground wire

That's it!

As far as run times... you can see my calcs in this post here They aren't exact, but should be reasonable. You can get bigger amp-hour batteries but I will almost always have power so I didn't really "max out" the amp-hours on the batteries. I haven't tried to run a full cook on battery power only, however unhooking your ignitor and manually starting with some pellets and a little gel would reduce the startup usage. Supposedly, according to the manual, the FEC100 only pulls 50 watts max when the fan is maxed and the auger is running. So, I think I could run my setup for a really really long time... even if I run both the FEC100 and the PG1000. You would probably be fine on a one battery setup, I have two just in case I ever have to/want to run my trailer lights or other things off the tripplite during a comp.

Let me know if you have any more questions...

Nordy
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Practice session went well. Got everything boxed and in on time.

Everything was pretty good... except ribs... waaayyy overdone... great flavor but overdone.

I changed my plan at the last minute and shouldn't have. I know where I went wrong, will fix it next week in Midwest City

Photos are up on the Dr. Nordy's BBQ facebook page...
My electrical engineering is a little rusty but unless you are dealing with very delicate oscillating processors, modified sine if very sufficient. Don't believe it? I wonder how the casino's manage to keep their slots and associated backoffice accounting and survelliance monitoring systems running while on 1 gigawatt industrial generators with modified star generated three phase step transformed power?

Trust me on this one. the FEC controller only needs some crude ac in which it converts to dc to run its logic. If the reliability and torque of the auger probably wasn't a crucial factor you could probably port 12vdc directly into the fec via an alternate port and bypass the AC all together in times of neccessity. I just don't think a 12 volt DC powered auger motor would handle cranking out pellets as small as the FEC auger is pitched.

Wow did I ramble at 2am on this one..... Confused
Thanks guys but I wasn't asking the question for my FEC, I was seeking the info as to understand the unit you guys are using and find out if it will meet my needs. With a lot of experience in the RV area I am very very familiar with what is and is not ok with modified sine and oct people assume it is bad for high end electronics and ok for lower end. Not true. I am no electrical engineer but I can tell you that I have talked to multiple appliance and TV MFGS and a modern flat panel is ok for the modified sine but a more standard tv will have inconsistent picture and eventually long term damage. Just asking...thanks for the infer.
quote:
I am no electrical engineer but I can tell you that I have talked to multiple appliance and TV MFGS and a modern flat panel is ok for the modified sine but a more standard tv will have inconsistent picture and eventually long term damage.


That's because a standard CRT is just that a Cathode Tube and thus needs a sine wave to keep the tube waveform steady to eliminate the heat and interferance of the waveform of the color ray beams that make the picture.

Yes I'm a little nerdy......
Hi Guys! With Nordy's amazing help and list of items I was able to get my Tripplite APS-1250 up and running at a competition. This competition had no power at all so I had to run completely off battery power. I set mine up with two marine batteries just like he laid it out and I ran for basically close to 20 hours over the weekend without even challenging my setup. It still showed a High charge on the inverter when I shut it down late Saturday. I am going to get some pictures out there so you can see how I set mine up. It was pretty ghetto actually as I resorted to setting up everything on an ice chest covered with a rubber mat I got from a restaurant supply store. For the record, I did not use a ground wire at all and I had no problem.

Thanks,

James
My Triplite arrived today (thanks Amazon). I am going to buy my batteries at Sears (only because I buy all my batteries at Sears).

I have some questions regarding what size and type batteries those of you that have a working system.

What size as in Group 24,27 or 31???

What style marine battery as I could purchase a battery rated for cranking/storage or a battery that is built for power storage?

Finally, has anyone run 2 6 volt in parallel as I think that would be the most power we could get out of two batteries. This is how I have the motorhome set up and I get a lot more power out of the 6 volt.
You want to use a deep cycle type battery. I use group 27 size. Check the amp-hour rating and do the math to figure what you need.

If using 6v batteries, I think they will have to be wired in series to get the 12V input, however I can't remember I the Tripplite requires a 12v input or not. If you put the batts in parallell the "amp-hours" are added giving you longer run time. In series the amp hours stay the same but the voltage is added...
You guys are obviously right, I typed it wrong (thought series but typed parallel) which is not unusual for me late at night).

Im trying to decide whether to go with 2 group 31 deep cycle run parallel (as I used to run in my truck campers)or two 6 volt in series (I currently run 2x6v in my motorhome and in a few of the boats I fish on).

I was just trying to find out what you guys are using in your successful systems.

Smokin', are you just using a single battery?

To answer your question. I will be using a FEC100 & Traeger Texas075. I will also probably let the battery system power a small fridge in the trailer just on the drive to comps. Will have the FEC & Traeger isolated only on the triplite system on site.

Although probably not enough of a difference to matter in this application but the term "Marine Deep Cycle"is a marketing term as most batteries described this way are not truly "deep cycle." The difference is very important in many marine applications...and voids many power system warranties.
I have 2 group 27s in parallel. They will run my fec and pg for DAYS. see precious calculations... I don't know how much your fridge would draw, but as soon at you hook up at a comp The Tripite will start chafing your batteries....

For the added amp hours, I didn't think the higher price and bigger size of the group 31 was worth it. It may be worth it in your application.

I have no idea when it comes to running the 6v battery bank... Someone smarter than me will have to tackle that one... (dang it Patrick I'm a doctor, not an electrician!)
Using batteries in series is not considered good design practice. The issues are efficiency loss due to internal/external resistance and long term effect of the charging system. If, for example, 6 volt batteries are used in series to provide 12 volts for a 12 volt charger/inverter system, then one of the batteries will lose capacity and efficiency over time due to the charge/discharge cycles. The first battery will receive its full charge and then over charge until the total voltage across the batteries meets the chargers requirement. This really means that the first battery will have a shorter life expectancy and the second battery in the series will not come to full capacity, thereby reducing the total amp-hours available. If you do use this type of system then the batteries should be connected in series to the inverter but charged in parallel; ie. 6 volt charger system connected to each battery.

Wiring can play an important part in whatever system you use. Examples of this are:

1. If batteries are used in parallel, then the positive lead of the system should be connected to the first battery in line and the negative lead to the last battery in line. This arrangement insures that all parallel batteries achieve the same charge.

2. All cables should be stranded wire, and the larger the better. Smaller wires offer more resistance and loss of current while stranded wires offer greater current capacity over solid wire.

3. Short cable runs between the battery bank and inverter/charger are preferred due to efficiency loss.

Temperature, battery charge, etc. are factors that affect the system. I have dual deep cycle 12 volt marine batteries, a Xantrac unit and can run my entire toyhauler setup for a contest minus the air conditioner. This includes an FEC100, FEPG500, lights, water pump, rv refrigerator, vacuum tumbler, electric knife, immersion blender, radio, LCD TV, charge my cell phones and whatever else my wife wants. If the ambient temperature goes above 90 degrees, then something has to get unplugged or I will need to charge the system prior to the end of a contest
quote:
Originally posted by Smoke'n Ice:
Using batteries in series is not considered good design practice. The issues are efficiency loss due to internal/external resistance and long term effect of the charging system. If, for example, 6 volt batteries are used in series to provide 12 volts for a 12 volt charger/inverter system, then one of the batteries will lose capacity and efficiency over time due to the charge/discharge cycles. The first battery will receive its full charge and then over charge until the total voltage across the batteries meets the chargers requirement. This really means that the first battery will have a shorter life expectancy and the second battery in the series will not come to full capacity, thereby reducing the total amp-hours available. If you do use this type of system then the batteries should be connected in series to the inverter but charged in parallel; ie. 6 volt charger system connected to each battery.


I guess this is why 10's of thousands of electric golf cars charged daily need their batteries replaced on 24 month preventive maintenance schedules.

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