Can anyone help me to understand why my fire went out about 2 hours into a cook.The bowl was full of pellets. The temp was set on the unlabeled mark above 180. I put new pellets in the hopper.
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The same thing happened to me my very first cook. Got up Sunday morning early. Put 2 butts and a brisket in the brand new FE100, same settings as yours, everything started fine. Ran for about 2 hours OK so I got ready for church. As I headed for the car I noticed the temp was low, checked inside, bowl full of pellets. Took most of the pellets out and restarted and went to church. Guess what I was thinking about the whole time we were at church? I got this thing so I could get some sleep at night and not worry about temps! Well when we got home everything was fine, 240 temp holding just fine. I have 4 more long cooks under my belt with no problems. I hope this was the 1 and only time this ever happens. Good luck!!!
I believe the five was too low to recover during the cycle and the fire went out. I cleaned the pot and restarted with no more problems. I hope that is all ther was to the deal.
Otherwise I like the FE100 for consistency and ease or operation.
I have a contest comming up next week and am still a little uneasy that this happened.
Gary Sublett
Lazy Bones BBQ
Otherwise I like the FE100 for consistency and ease or operation.
I have a contest comming up next week and am still a little uneasy that this happened.
Gary Sublett
Lazy Bones BBQ
Remove as many pellets from the hopper so you can eye ball the auger. Put your contoller in the "smoke" position. The auger should cycle in this position with 15 seconds on and 55 seconds off. If not then unplug the unit from the power source and remove the controller. You should be abe to pull it out far enough without having to unplug the cables. Looking at the back of the controller, in the top left corner is a square device with a arrow indicator. It should be on #1, I use mine on #2...#3 and above will probably eventually create a burn out!
Each of these positions is a 10 second increase in "off auger" time starting at 45 seconds in the "0" position, therefore 3 would be 75 seconds off auger and 15 seconds on auger. The reason I run in the 2 position is because the oven will run at around 180*F in the smoke position while in 1 it'll run about 200*F.
Also it is important that this machine has plenty of air. If your indoors, even the garage, open a window or door!
Lately I have been doing a lot of pastrami from store bought corned beefs and after soaking the salt out of them I want a lot of smoke at a low heat until they hit 165*F! They're wonderful! Try it...I foil them at about 145*F to keep in the moisture. I have used Emeril's Essence mixed with "Butt Rub, course black pepper and chipolte!
Hope this helps your problem.
Each of these positions is a 10 second increase in "off auger" time starting at 45 seconds in the "0" position, therefore 3 would be 75 seconds off auger and 15 seconds on auger. The reason I run in the 2 position is because the oven will run at around 180*F in the smoke position while in 1 it'll run about 200*F.
Also it is important that this machine has plenty of air. If your indoors, even the garage, open a window or door!
Lately I have been doing a lot of pastrami from store bought corned beefs and after soaking the salt out of them I want a lot of smoke at a low heat until they hit 165*F! They're wonderful! Try it...I foil them at about 145*F to keep in the moisture. I have used Emeril's Essence mixed with "Butt Rub, course black pepper and chipolte!
Hope this helps your problem.
Thanks Cap`n I will check that out. Do you think that increasing the the off time would increase the chances of a flame out.
Gary
Gary
Lazy Bones...
Absolutely...watch how low the flame gets, you may actually think it has gone out...the timing is rather critical. Not sure if wind has any effect...but maybe a freak gust of wind might! I learned all of these facts from Fast Eddy when I had my first and only flame out. Found out mine was set on #3 from the factory. At that time Eddy suggested #2 but then later on this forum he suggested #1. I once had talked to the orginal controller designer and he remarked that all of the controllers that he has seen were set on #1. You may like to talk to CS and see what they have to say, I'd be curious!
If I am doing an over night cook, which I used to do several times a week, I use a temp probe to monitor the oven air temp with alarms.
P.S. If you're using an inverter/battery power source then make sure your inverter can supply electronics...a non modified sine wave is best and may actually be necessary. Looks like the controller will run with a battery voltage and inverter down to the 11.7 VDC range, depending on the inverter effiency. Weird auger timing occurs with a cheap poorly modified sine wave inverter! When the digital display begins to flash on and off the voltage is to low.
Enjoy!
Absolutely...watch how low the flame gets, you may actually think it has gone out...the timing is rather critical. Not sure if wind has any effect...but maybe a freak gust of wind might! I learned all of these facts from Fast Eddy when I had my first and only flame out. Found out mine was set on #3 from the factory. At that time Eddy suggested #2 but then later on this forum he suggested #1. I once had talked to the orginal controller designer and he remarked that all of the controllers that he has seen were set on #1. You may like to talk to CS and see what they have to say, I'd be curious!
If I am doing an over night cook, which I used to do several times a week, I use a temp probe to monitor the oven air temp with alarms.
P.S. If you're using an inverter/battery power source then make sure your inverter can supply electronics...a non modified sine wave is best and may actually be necessary. Looks like the controller will run with a battery voltage and inverter down to the 11.7 VDC range, depending on the inverter effiency. Weird auger timing occurs with a cheap poorly modified sine wave inverter! When the digital display begins to flash on and off the voltage is to low.
Enjoy!
I cant believe everybody is having flame out problems , my FE 100 flamed out 1 time in 4 years and that was due to low voltage.. You need to check your power source and make sure the power is constant and steady and clean. These controllers and auger motors dont like low voltage or inconsient power . thats the reason the inverters need to be non sine wave approved .Gary if you go to Dillard their power is real weak and your cooker will do the same <flame out >unless you have a backup power source . Just my 2 cents
My pit had one flame out when it was new. Haven't had one since and I use mine almost daily, including overnight cooks. I think it is a "voodoo" problem on new models, that just has to show you it could happen. 
Thanks for all the help. Yes I will be at Dillard next week. I have a battery and inverter ready to go. I believe that I can run the whole contest on the battery. I ran it last week in Charleston with no problems.
I will check the setting on the auger to be sure it is OK. Last nite the wind was not an issue.I put the pellets in fresh out of a new bag just before lighting up.Is there anything else to check that could cause flame outs.
Gary Sublett
Lazy Bones BBQ
aka Two Big Slugs BBQ
I will check the setting on the auger to be sure it is OK. Last nite the wind was not an issue.I put the pellets in fresh out of a new bag just before lighting up.Is there anything else to check that could cause flame outs.
Gary Sublett
Lazy Bones BBQ
aka Two Big Slugs BBQ
Gary,
A lot of clean living helps as well.
See you in Dillard,
Charles
A lot of clean living helps as well.
See you in Dillard,
Charles
I think KP Cowboy meant "non modified" sine wave approved rather than "non sine wave". Modified can work if it is well modified! And you'll know if it isn't modified enough if the auger timing goes weird! In this instance usually you get what you pay for in inverters!
One other thing to check: clean out the firepot of any ash build up.
I too have had only 1 flame out and like Fast Freddie said it must be a voodoo thing just to keep you on the ball.
Dillard is only about 15 miles south of me so I'll should make it. If any of you are going to make a mountian tour come by the Franklin, NC Flea market...I'll be in the back of Junes Junktiques, everyday except Wed.,which is also the Avon and Tupperware store.
One other thing to check: clean out the firepot of any ash build up.
I too have had only 1 flame out and like Fast Freddie said it must be a voodoo thing just to keep you on the ball.
Dillard is only about 15 miles south of me so I'll should make it. If any of you are going to make a mountian tour come by the Franklin, NC Flea market...I'll be in the back of Junes Junktiques, everyday except Wed.,which is also the Avon and Tupperware store.
man guys thanks!!!!!!
really sweating out our 1st comp labor day weekend, that is if we get the trailer on august 20th. been writting all this stuff down. sure would like to thank everyone for the help. got a honda eu3000is generator since it was highly rated on the pro site and from this i learned how to check my settings plus i got a heat map!!!! it don't get no better!!!! well, i'm lying, it would get better if i had my trailer and my fec100 and sm150 and at least 2 weeks practice but what the heck i got some problems covered and just wanted to thank you all
jack
2 Greyhounds....SMOKIN!!!!
really sweating out our 1st comp labor day weekend, that is if we get the trailer on august 20th. been writting all this stuff down. sure would like to thank everyone for the help. got a honda eu3000is generator since it was highly rated on the pro site and from this i learned how to check my settings plus i got a heat map!!!! it don't get no better!!!! well, i'm lying, it would get better if i had my trailer and my fec100 and sm150 and at least 2 weeks practice but what the heck i got some problems covered and just wanted to thank you all
jack
2 Greyhounds....SMOKIN!!!!
pete
also thanks for the ventilation thing. will leave back door open and both awnings at opposite ends of trailer. between that and the hood airflow should be ok
jack
also thanks for the ventilation thing. will leave back door open and both awnings at opposite ends of trailer. between that and the hood airflow should be ok
jack
I too was bitten by the flame-out voodoo this last weekend. I have an FE100. I was gonna smoke 3 racks of spares 2hours on smoke and 2 hours+ at 250.
I got up at 5am put the ribs in and set the temp setting on smoke. At 7am I came down and noticed the internal smoker temp was 70 degrees! "That's not right", I thought. I opened the smoker and the pot was plumb full of pellets. I got me a bowl and got the pellets out, then fired it back up on "smoke". The fire wouldn't stay lit. I then got every single pellet out, including ash, from the pot. At that point, with the setting on smoke, it stayed lit. Because I was pressed for time, I went ahead and rammed the temp up to 275 degrees. I will be doing some more testing this weeked. First time flame-out for me and I have had the smoker 3 months.
Yes, my controller setting is set to 1 before anyone asks and yes, there is plenty of air. My own personal thoughts are that you really need to get the pot free of ash before you start a cook. Maybe I am off base.
I got up at 5am put the ribs in and set the temp setting on smoke. At 7am I came down and noticed the internal smoker temp was 70 degrees! "That's not right", I thought. I opened the smoker and the pot was plumb full of pellets. I got me a bowl and got the pellets out, then fired it back up on "smoke". The fire wouldn't stay lit. I then got every single pellet out, including ash, from the pot. At that point, with the setting on smoke, it stayed lit. Because I was pressed for time, I went ahead and rammed the temp up to 275 degrees. I will be doing some more testing this weeked. First time flame-out for me and I have had the smoker 3 months.
Yes, my controller setting is set to 1 before anyone asks and yes, there is plenty of air. My own personal thoughts are that you really need to get the pot free of ash before you start a cook. Maybe I am off base.
Vacuuming the pot and the empty auger (to get sawdust out)is a good thing to do. Also, don't just dump a bag of pellets in the hopper. Let the sawdust settle to the bottom and scoop the pellets out. Sawdust = more ash (doesn't burn cleanly). Sawdust also can jam auger.
I believe that when you set the temp to the smoke setting to start with there sometimes is not enough heat to sustain the burn. I have been turning the FE on at a higher setting for a while then go to the smoke setting after the fire is established. This as well as cleaning out the bowl as previously mentioned will take longer to start the cook but I think it is well worth the trouble.
I agree with you Candy Sue. I always scoop the pellets out. In fact, I take the 40lb bags and portion it out into 5lb bags as I open a new bag. I dont think that sawdust is my problem. I think Lazy Bones has suggested the approach I will be taking next time. Although I am going to do some testing with going straight to "smoke" right off the bat.
It seems to me that flame outs will occur when the cooker is in the delay mode. Doesn't seem likely that the fire would go out when you are continually feeding fuel to it. I'm going out on a limb and say that the fire goes out because the pellets in bowl burn up before new fuel is added during the delay cycle. Thus the longer delays of the 3 setting give you more flame outs than the 2 setting, etc.. In a perfect world, a sixty second run would deposit exactly the same amount of pellets in the bowl. To me the question becomes what can cause the auger to not to deposit sufficient pellets to burn through the delay?
I suppose dirty power could cause the controller to not turn the auger motor on at the end of the delay cycle, but in every flame out I have had or heard about, the auger motor ran at some point because the bowl is full of pellets.
Low voltage will cause the auger motor and combustion fan to run at reduced RPMs. Reduced RPMs on the auger means that less fuel will be deposited in the bowl during the run time. Reduced RPMs on the cubustion fan could mean insufficient air to sustain the fire. But flame outs have occured on good power. I think the pellets themselves may also be a culprit.
Look at the pellets. There are long ones, short ones, and everything in between. There is no way the auger can fill the same every time. So on the rare occasion were there are too many long ones, there is too little fuel to sustain the fire and you have a flame out. In other words, it is pure random luck.
So much for redneck engineering.
I suppose dirty power could cause the controller to not turn the auger motor on at the end of the delay cycle, but in every flame out I have had or heard about, the auger motor ran at some point because the bowl is full of pellets.
Low voltage will cause the auger motor and combustion fan to run at reduced RPMs. Reduced RPMs on the auger means that less fuel will be deposited in the bowl during the run time. Reduced RPMs on the cubustion fan could mean insufficient air to sustain the fire. But flame outs have occured on good power. I think the pellets themselves may also be a culprit.
Look at the pellets. There are long ones, short ones, and everything in between. There is no way the auger can fill the same every time. So on the rare occasion were there are too many long ones, there is too little fuel to sustain the fire and you have a flame out. In other words, it is pure random luck.
So much for redneck engineering.
I just love it! Any problem with any pellet cooker ever made, it's the pellets at fault when any part of the cooker fails. It's just wood. More than likely it's the controller at fault in a flame out. I'm not picking on FE here...we can talk W'ham augers binding or Traeger weak auger motors too. No difference. It's mechanical and pellets aren't. Or <gasp, arg> user error! Don't put those pellets that have been holding down your canopy in a thunderstorm in your hopper and not be prepared to clean out the auger! (Got to say "I told you so" on that one! MIM 2002). All comes down to you tend a pellet cooker too, just maybe not as much as a stick burner.
sue
thanks for the advice.
i have been following this thread just to stay up on problems since trailer tech once again has delayed deleivery. nice part is by paying attention to this thread i know just what to avoid
jack
thanks for the advice.
i have been following this thread just to stay up on problems since trailer tech once again has delayed deleivery. nice part is by paying attention to this thread i know just what to avoid
jack
I believe this has been mentioned before, though if the FE's had the ability to detect a cold fire pot and automatically go into inginite mode, this wouldn't be as large of a problem.
I also have a pellet stove for heating. I have had it go out several times and I believe it is always the result of of not enough air. On this unit, you can adjust a damper that allows more or less air into your fire box.
On the stove, you can watch the pellets burn. As pellets are dropped into the fire pot, it is possible that the new pellets will put out the fire that is burning, especially if you are cooking on a low setting. It happens all the time on my stove. It hasn't happened yet on my FE, though I'm sure it will in time.
I also have a pellet stove for heating. I have had it go out several times and I believe it is always the result of of not enough air. On this unit, you can adjust a damper that allows more or less air into your fire box.
On the stove, you can watch the pellets burn. As pellets are dropped into the fire pot, it is possible that the new pellets will put out the fire that is burning, especially if you are cooking on a low setting. It happens all the time on my stove. It hasn't happened yet on my FE, though I'm sure it will in time.
Pellet manufacturers are sure a sensative group. We are talking about a flame outs not a jammed auger. You certainly make an arguement that the auger jams, the fire goes out, and the auger unjams and fills the bowl with pellets. Any theory that addresses pellets not going into the bowl before the last bunch burns out is just as plausable as another. You have to admit that burn outs on the high delay settings are far more common than on the lower delay settings. They are more likely at lower thermostat settings because you are in the delay mode more. The easy answer is that some weird electron made the controller do something bad.
You are right about the motors. If you want to cut down on jams, get a more powerful motor. In fact the new FE2000s are coming with bigger motors.
Candy Sue, I have never had a problem when I've been using your pellets. they are the best.
You are right about the motors. If you want to cut down on jams, get a more powerful motor. In fact the new FE2000s are coming with bigger motors.
Candy Sue, I have never had a problem when I've been using your pellets. they are the best.
Nah, not sensitive. Just had lots of pellet cooker customers who've blamed pellets for a whole lot of problems. One good friend and W'ham user absolutely dogged me with jammed auger problems. Finally, I sent him a bag of every flavor of pellet we made. Logic was - they can't all be bad! If the same problem kept happening (and it did) it couldn't be the pellets. Turned out to be a steel auger in steel feed pipe binding causing auger jam. Replaced the auger and voila, no problem. Good cook too. Won the Jack that year.
I've had flame outs, a controller go bad, and an Auger motor die, but not one jam. I started up a new one about a month ago, and had a flame out. Cleaned out the bowl and it hasn't missed a lick since. It was one of those 100 degree afternoons when every air conditioner in arkansas was going full tilt, I wrote it off as a low votage issue. There is no doudt that good cooker maintenance is the key to minimizing problems. I want to tear mine apart to see how it works, but I'm afraid I couldn't get it back together.