I think a major part of the problem with this subject is the confusion created by the mistaken interchangeability of the terms “Wagyu” and “Kobe”. As mentioned in the article, the term Wagyu, literally translated, means “Japanese cattle” (Wa=Japanese, Gyu=cattle). Hence, all Kobe are Wagyu, but not all Wagyu are Kobe. The confusion is further compounded in the U.S with the terms “American Wagyu”, “Wagyu Style”, and “Kobe Style”.
The April, 2010 H&M disease ban by the U.S pertains to the importation of all Wagyu, not any specific breed such as Kobe. Prior to the ban, the exportation of Kobe from Japan to any foreign country, including the U.S., was illegal. With the exception of a small shipment to Macao earlier this year it still is considered is illegal to export Kobe from Japan. I don’t know if the same export ban applies to the other distinguished Wagyu breeds such as Mishima, Matsuzaka, or Omi, but I wouldn’t be surprised if it does.
Max – I’ve been to TFL numerous times since it opened in the mid-1990s, as well as its NYC clone, Per Se that opened a decade later. Keller does an exemplary job of full disclosure for most items on the tasting menus and I have never seen the term “Genuine Japanese Kobe” listed. What was a long-time staple offered as a supplement with a $100 additional charge was a dish known as “Calotte de Bœuf Grillée” and, by your description, sounds like the dish you had. If so, that was American Wagyu from Snake River Farms (ID, USA), which is a crossbreed. More recently, that dish has been replaced by a strip loin from Blackmore Farms (VIC, AUS), which is full blooded Wagyu. I’ve never ordered either, but have sampled the former, and it was outstanding.
Personally, I’ve had American Wagyu a number of times in a variety of forms, but I’ve only had the real stuff once at a small business dinner party for 6 a couple years ago in Tokyo where I was the only American. Instead of Kobe, Matsuzaka was served which, as I understand it, many find superior to Kobe. I was told that only the Matsuzaka females are slaughtered for beef, and that a very small percentage of that group are slaughtered before they’re allowed to breed resulting in what is known as “Virgin Beef”. That’s what we were served.
After being seated and served an initial round of drinks the chef and a couple servers appeared with platters to present the raw steaks that are host had individually selected for each of us. At first sight all I could think of was “Where’s the beef?” The marbling had to be around 75%, if not more. The taste and texture of the cooked meat was phenomenal, but so ungodly rich that I had trouble getting through it. I plugged away, however, not wanting to appear rude. It was so different that it’s nearly impossible to describe or compare to American Wagyu, or top quality dry aged USDA prime beef. Not better or worse, just very good and very different. Quite an experience that I doubt will ever happen again.
