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Low voltage or low amperage can damage electronics the same as too much. I can't say whether or not the thermostat and heating element in our Smokettes qualify as being electronics. Not enough will certainly damage digital circuits such as on the Amerique and some other Cookshack products. I would use the heaviest and shortest cord possible. You can get heavy wire and make a cord just the right length that you need if you have basic electrician skills.
The 008 specs:
500 watt heating element, 10 amps, 120v, single phase current

This is so little draw tha almost any extension cord will work fine. Looks on the cord and it should list an allowable wattage. Modst are good for 1200 watts to 1800 watts which is the safe limit for a 15 amp circuit.
DaveN -- You are correct on the "little draw," yet there have been tons of people here wonder just what their problem was with low and inaccurate heat. The problem turned out to be inadequate extention cords.

People, if you must to use an extension cord buy an extra heavy duty one. I am no electriction but do know that the wire in the extension cord has to be equal to or heavier in gauge (wire thickness) than the one attached to your CS unit. If not, you are asking for disappointment.
Last edited by wheelz
quote:
Originally posted by DaveN:
This is so little draw tha almost any extension cord will work fine.


Unfortunately that is not the case, well you did say "almost".

Too long a cord and too small a gauge will allow voltage leakage. Seen it happen enough times here on the forum and CS advised the same.

If you use an extension cord, get a heavy duty one made to handle the load.
quote:
Originally posted by SmokinOkie:
quote:
Originally posted by DaveN:
This is so little draw tha almost any extension cord will work fine.


Unfortunately that is not the case, well you did say "almost".

Too long a cord and too small a gauge will allow voltage leakage. Seen it happen enough times here on the forum and CS advised the same.

If you use an extension cord, get a heavy duty one made to handle the load.


The key is to check the allowable watts per cord. If you buy one rated for 1800 watts the gauge(thickness) of the wires will be proportional to the length of the cord to be UL rated for that wattage.
quote:
The key is to check the allowable watts per cord. If you buy one rated for 1800 watts the gage(thickness) of the wires will be proportional to the length of the cord to be UL rated for that wattage.

The allowable watts per cord is the wattage that the cord can handle before the wire begins to glow like a toaster. Not a good idea. Also, there's more involved than just the extension cord itself. Remember, the power company delivers 120 volts to your breaker box. That is then fed into the circuit that delivers the current to the receptacle into which your cooker is plugged. That circuit will have a voltage loss based on the length of the run and the gage of the wire and what other appliances are also on the same circuit. You then plug an extension cord into that receptacle and there will be an additional voltage loss at the cooker end.

To make it short, either do some voltage drop calculations or use the Smokin Okie system and use a cord no longer than absolutely necessary to reach your smoker and with at least 12 gage wire. Yes, I'm an engineer. Yes I can do the voltage loss calculations. No I didn't do them. I took the lazy man's way out and I've got my 08 plugged into 25 feet of 12 gage and it cooks just beautifully.

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