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I trimmed some tree limbs that are about the thickness of a baseball bat or a little less. Now I'm trying to cut them into 1 and 2 oz. chunks for the smoker. Problem is, I'm using a Makita miter saw to cut the branches into smaller slices, and when the blade hits a knot in the wood, it stops the saw (even though the blade is new) and often times the saw blade gets stuck in the wood. Of course I try to avoid hitting knots with the saw, but there are so many that you can't always see them or avoid them.

Nine out of ten cuts will be fine, but certain knots cause the blade to stop and get stuck.

Anyone have tips on how to use a miter saw to cut better? Will the wood and knots be easier to cut through after the wood dries? If I cut real slow, will that help the blade go through the tough knots?

Any advice would be appreciated!
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I second the band saw, you can get a cheap one at Sears for around $60 on sale.

The band saw doesn't produce nearly as much sawdust, which means your wasting less wood. also, you can take off the bark, to within a 1/16"

Plus you get to keep all of your fingers.

I just checked, and they have one on sale now for $60.

band saw
Good idea on the band saw, but I was hoping to do this without having to fork out cash for any more power tools or smoking equipment Big Grin .

I was wondering if a different miter saw blade would be less likely to get stuck in the wood or less likely to be stopped by a knot. The blade I have on there now is an all purpose one with big teeth. I was wondering if one with smaller, more frequent teeth would be less likely to jamb.

I could also cut these chunks with a chainsaw, but wondered about the chain oil getting on the wood. However, on the WSM site, I read that many people use chainsaws to cut their smoking wood into small chunks and they've never noticed any noticable oil on the wood after its cut, and they haven't noticed any funny taste after smoking with wood cut into chunks with a chainsaw. Plus, many of them agree that when you buy packaged smoking wood, it was most likely cut with a chainsaw.

Anyone have any opinions on whether its OK to use a chainsaw to cut smoking wood into smaller chunks, or if a certain type of miter saw blade is better at sawing through knots in wood without jambing?
I think you need to have the bushings on your saw checked. You can probably do it yourself.

There is nothing on a tree limb the miter saw should have any problems cutting through.

I use one to cut through Ipe(ironwood) for decking and it is tougher than any tree you'd smoke with.
studly,I would not use a chainsaw on count of the chain-bar oil.I also use a band saw,or if the limbs are small enough I use my makita 7&1/4 skill saw,with the limbs in a vise.I have a 40 tooth carbide blade on my skill saw & it works fine when you let the limbs dry out for about 2 to 3 months.
For cheap.. do you have a Harbor Freight in your area? They have power tools that are both cheap and cheap.. inexpensive bandsaws and, I forget the name of the demolition type sabre saw.. used for cutting pipes, holes in roofs, etc.. but they have one for about $20 quite often.. Yep, went to their website and here it is.. It ain't industrial quality.. but, for cutting Q wood.. what the heck.. and you can use it for tons of jobs around the property.. They also have a $70 version that they sell for 1/2 price quite often.. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=4095

Also, here is a bow saw.. can't beat the price.. unless they have a 1/2 price sale on them too.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=90220

BTW, I certainly would not worry about waste unless you are buying furniture lumber or getting scraps from a cabinet shop.

The CS uses so little wood it is immaterial

Bill
Hippie, the wood I'm cutting is from a crab apple tree.

Todd, yeah, I'd think a miter saw should be able to cut through everything. But while searching the WSM smoking forums, I see that lots of people have reported problems using their miter saw when it hits a knot ... lots of people report that the saw can hit a knot and send the wood piece flying across the room, denting walls, etc.

Thanks for the tips, everyone!
Thanks again for the tips everyone. Apparently I was in too big of a hurry before. I retried cutting some of those branches, but this time lowered the saw blade very slowly. It worked beautifully, even in parts of the wood with lots of knots. No bucking, no jambing of the blade!

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