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Let me start by saying I own a Spyderco Triangle Sharpmaker. I have had it for a year and watched all the instructional videos I could find. I even bought two additional stones (ultra fine and diamond).I use the side labeled 40 degrees which gives me a 20 degree edge. I am 99% certain I am doing it right.

I WAS a happy man. I felt that my knives were sharp. 95% of all my kitchen knives are Wusthof Classic. We use the Santoku and chefs knives the most.

Then it happened.. I bought a new knife for the Mrs last week. I got her a Wüsthof Classic Chai Dao. Basically a Santoku with a curved edged, she likes Santoku for cutting vegetables.

Her words.. "It's insane sharp" (out of the box). What she meant is you do not know how to sharpen a knife everything in the house you sharpened is dull. She even cut her finger with the new "insane sharp" knife.. 4 stitches.. hospital trip..

Why can't I sharpen my knives "insane sharp" like how you get it out of the box?

What angle do new knives come at out of the box?

My Spyderco Triangle Sharpmaker also has the 30 degrees side but I use the 40 degree side only because a video I saw made by Spyderco said to use 40 degrees side for kitchen knives. Should I start using the 30 degree side only?

Is the Apex Model Edge Pro System "insanely" better than Spyderco?
Can someone tell me who owns or has used both the Apex Model Edge Pro System and the Spyderco that the knife sharpened with Apex Model Edge Pro System will always come out sharper than the Spyderco sharpened knife?


Who no longer is a man due to his inability to sharpen a knife to "insane sharp"
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I'm really don't have that much need for an insanely sharp edge but I can appreciate it. I use a couple of ceramic sticks I picked up 25 years ago. It sharpens nowhere near as well as the newer sets but meets my needs. It always seemed counter to reasoning that after sharpening I was supposed to increase the angle of the sticks and give it a few strokes. When I began using them I asked myself if that wouldn't remove the edge from the knife. It works though. I imagine what is really happening is a good sharp knife, at the microscopic level, has some irregularities on the edge that tear into what is being cut. These are the burrs you referred to. The edge is not a perfectly smooth low angle.
Am I correct in my thinking?
I have never learned to use a steel or a crock stick, but the pros get the insain edge using them. I use the Lansky sharpening kit. One of the problems with these is it is easy to get a "wire edge". This is basically an over sharp edge that will fold over on the first use. Just remember that if the knife you are working on was already sharp, and "it just doesn't seem as sharp now", unless you have been trying to saw through bone, it only needs to have the edge reset. A couple of strokes with a fine stone should do this. i have a couple of the Fisker pull through ceramic sharpeners, that costs a couple of bucks, and works great for this. Take a real close look at those "Japanese" blades. Many of them are only sharpend on one side.
From my research and experience the most important thing about knife sharpening is keeping the same angle with each stroke. That is what the edge pro and others with guides do for you. It is important to sharpen at the angle that is already on the knife edge. Once you have figured all this out, you want to do as others have said and get a burr. At this point you have taken the blade as far as you can with the grit stone you are using. A few light strokes to take off the burr and you can then set the edge with leather strap, Ceramic sticks, steel or whatever. You can dress up the edge as needed with these same devices, but at some point in time you will need to sharpen your knife again. You will want to dress up the edge using just a few degrees more angle that you did sharpening.

There are other things to consider about sharpness. The thicker the blade the harder to get sharp. The guy that makes the edge pro demonstrates you can cut carrots in to easy with just the side edge of a putty knife because it is so thin. The japanese blades are so sharp because of sharpening on just one side makes them so thin at the blade.

As others have said, how sharp is sharp enough? For me, once I get to the point the knife will shave hair or cut a ripe tomato, it's good enough for me.
Originally posted by RichH:
I have had all non electric sharpeners known to man Smiler
I just got one of these and had all these knives shaving sharp in less than 10 minutes, the unit is made in the USA and is less than $60 from amazon with free shipping.

Hi RichH,

I interested in your knife sharpener, I want to know what's that model (it's good if you have amazon link)
Do these models work? http://www.bestsellingreviews....hen/Knife-Sharpener/
Last edited by sophiala
Anyone can put a great edge on a blade and not put a lot of thought into with a Work Sharp. Nothing else comes close in ease.

If your are rounding tips on a sharpening system such as the WS, you are not using it correctly. I have no interest in their company, but I know that their system will sharpen a knife sharper than anything I have used. I'm good on a stone, which comes from experience, but a person can buy a Work Sharp, read the directions and produce a hair shaving edge a couple of minutes later. I'm sorry if I sound contrite, but I've used many systems and this is the only one that I know a person with no experience can take out of the box, read 2 minutes of instructions and produce an edges that is not rounded on the tip and give you a hair shaving edge.

You mention Amazon, buy it from Amazon or other online retailers that offer a 30 day return. You also mention the Amazon rating. Amazon has 400+ ratings for the Work Sharp system and rates it 4.5+ out of 5. I'm a pretty quiet guy on the forums, but your comments may prevent members from finding a system that really works. The Work Sharp is an American made product, I ordered one after reading reviews and found it to be a great product. For all that have a problem learning to get a good edge using a stone or really don't care to take the time, buy a Work Sharp and try it out, if it doesn't work, send it back.

Last edited by bdinks
The system comes with two jigs. The 40* jig is for finer bladed kitchen knives and creates a 20* bevel on each side of the knife. The 50* jig is for heavier blades that will be subjected to heavy work. The 50* jig creates a 25* bevel on each side of the blade. A 40* bevel on each side of the blade would not be very conducive to a sharp useful edge.
If you are going to spend in the $300 range, I would sugggest looking at the edge pro system. you can set the bevel anywhere from 16 to 24 degrees and stones range from 120 grit all the way up to 6000 grit polishing strips. I have the pro model and love it. In fact, I have created a cottage industry sharpening knives for others!!
If you are going to spend in the $300 range, I would sugggest looking at the edge pro system. you can set the bevel anywhere from 16 to 24 degrees and stones range from 120 grit all the way up to 6000 grit polishing strips. I have the pro model and love it. In fact, I have created a cottage industry sharpening knives for others!!

Add to that a leather strop and some polishing compounds and you are good for life!

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